Stockist Spotlight: Brindisa Meets The Cheese Lady

How Svetlana became The Cheese Lady

When we think of the world of farmhouse and artisan cheese, the brain tends to conjure up images of animals roaming freely in lush meadows. But it was in the hustle and bustle of New York City where Svetlana Kukharchuck, founder of The Cheese Lady, first fell in love with fine cheese. While working in a chocolate shop in the Saks Fifth Avenue department store, Svetlana was asked to attend a food trade show that would change the direction of her career. “There were all of these amazing cheeses from all over the world and my mind was just blown!”, she reminisces.

Swapping chocolate for cheese, Svetlana began to volunteer at the award-winning speciality foods retailer Murray’s Cheese, based in Manhattan. This involved working at tasting events, maturing cheeses in their cheese caves, and selling 300 varieties of cheese from around the world. “I saw how much excitement and joy it brings people to try cheeses”, she explains. “When customers came back and requested me to serve them, that was the best compliment”. On top of the specialist expertise she had built, her experience at Murray’s sparked a passion that would one day lead her to open her own cheese shop.

And she did just that, though not in the way she expected. After training in affinage at Hervé Mons in France, and even turning her hand to cheesemaking, her fate brought her to open her first cheese shop in Scotland, over 3000km from where her cheese journey had begun.

A 15-year Partnership

Svetlana's relationship with Brindisa began almost as soon as she settled in the U.K. Attending trade shows in London, she was drawn to the quality and authenticity of Brindisa’s Spanish cheese offering. "What attracted me to Brindisa was the range of products and their commitment to quality," Svetlana explains. "The cheeses are either farmhouse or artisanal, ensuring that every product is exceptional. The variety is also exciting, from well-known classics like Manchego to more unique options."

Her first shop quickly became a beloved local establishment. While this shop had a different name, Svetlana’s regular customers referred to her locally as ‘The Cheese Lady’. When it came to selling the store and opening her current shop in East Lothian, there was no better name choice than the one her own customers had fondly given her. Despite the shop’s success, working in a retail environment isn’t something that necessarily came naturally to Svetlana; it was her passion for the cheese that led her to enjoy retailing, rather than the opposite. “I'm very much an introvert, but I think I come into my own when I'm in a cheese retail environment. I couldn’t sell car tyres, but I can sell cheese” she laughs.

The Allure of Spanish Cheese

So, what is it about Spanish cheese that excites The Cheese Lady and her customers? She highlights Spain's rich tradition of sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses: "Spanish cheesemakers are just so committed to tradition and quality, and it shows in the unique tastes and textures of those cheeses" she says. Svetlana has found that her regular customers are enthusiastic about trying Spanish cheeses. “Tourists want to try local Scottish cheeses, but I find Scottish people, our regular customers, are very open-minded when it comes to cheese" she notes. 

Asked if she could pick her favourite Spanish cheese, Svetlana lists several from her counter: nutty Payoyo; vibrant Mahón; velvety Monte Enebro. But there’s one that stands out above the rest for The Cheese Lady. “I have to say, out of them all, it's such a special treat when we get Granizo in stock", she says, referring to a decadent mousse-textured goat’s cheese with added truffle.

Another of the joys of running a cheese shop is, of course, experimenting with endless accompaniments. Of the list of Brindisa accompaniments she sells, Svetlana particularly loves Membrillo quince paste. "It’s a must-have with cheese," she says. For a savoury twist, she recommends the famous Perelló olives, which she describes as "highly addictive”. The Perelló regañás crackers also get a special mention, but she admits she can never decide her favourite of the three varieties: “it changes every week”, she confesses. Before moving on, Svetlana remembers another product she describes as “underappreciated”: Brindisa’s pickled green figs, which she tells everyone they must try.

Proudly Celebrating Scotland

When talking about The Cheese Lady, it’s impossible not to talk about Scottish cheese, and the quality and diversity of Scottish cheesemaking today. But where should a beginner cheese fan start? As a selection, Svetlana recommends three standout varieties: Isle of Mull Cheddar, her bestseller, a tangy cow's milk cheese; Bonnet, a firm and nutty goat's milk cheese; and Lanark Blue, Scotland’s answer to Roquefort, known for its rich taste and long-lasting tradition of production. These Scottish cheeses, along with many others, stand proudly in Svetlana’s counter alongside their international counterparts.

The Business of Cheese

Svetlana’s approach to retailing is very much in line with her company’s mission: To Inspire Joyful and Wholesome Living. This means that her favourite customer interactions are slow, thoughtful ones where she can take her time curating the right selection for each person. "I love to find the perfect cheeses and accompaniments for the customer in front of me, and finding something they will enjoy”. At odds with this is the busy Christmas period, when The Cheese Lady has hundreds of eager customers queued down the street for hours. Fantastic for business, but not for a slow, curated approach to retail. Asked how she handles the demands of these busy periods, while being in the spotlight as the face of her business, she shares an insightful thought. “I'm not in the spotlight; I'm just shining the spotlight on cheese”. 

Excitingly, Svetlana and her small but powerful team of Cheese Ladies are working on opening other locations and serving more customers across the U.K. A line from her book, The Cheese Connoisseur’s Handbook, written during the pandemic, shows that things are heading in the right direction. “My purpose in this world is to show people how to really savour life, and I believe that fine cheese is the perfect vehicle for that”.

Want to find out more? Click below to watch a conversation between Svetlana and Brindisa founder, Monika: