A Journey from a Forgotten Village to Chiswick

Discovering Spain’s Sheep’s Milk Cheeses

By Monika Linton

Why Chiswick Cheese Market?

Chiswick Cheese Market is the UK's only dedicated monthly, non-profit cheese market. Our reasons for being there are connected to the beginnings of Brindisa, which is a personal and broader story.

The very first cheese I brought to London, back in 1990, came from a village so small and remote that it barely appeared on the map. The cheese had no name, no brand, and no reputation. Yet that humble wheel opened more doors for Brindisa in the early 90s than any other.

It was a hard sheep’s milk cheese made from raw milk of the Churra, an indigenous (autóctonos) Spanish breed. The shepherd who made it tended a tiny flock and aged the cheese in olive oil before packing it into a beautifully designed tin. Although that tin caught people’s attention in the UK, it was the flavour that really won chefs over. The cheese was deeper, more complex, more moreish and fuller in flavour than anyone expected.

This was before Manchego was a household word, and before Spain had even joined the EU. Against all odds, that handmade cheese helped establish our name through its flavour, its story, its rarity and the dedication of the small-scale shepherd maker who lovingly crafted it.

Before Manchego Had a Name

At the time, “Manchego” had not yet been formally protected by the Spanish government. The recipe existed across Spain, with regional variations in milk, terroir and technique—much like how “cheddar” describes a style rather than a single origin.

When the Manchego became a protected designation tied specifically to Castilla–La Mancha, cheeses made in the same traditional style in other regions suddenly found themselves without a name!  And they became invisible in a world that increasingly valued recognisable labels.

That’s why our stand at Chiswick is dedicated to all Spanish sheep’s milk cheeses—Manchego or otherwise. We select cheeses for their merit, not because they are instantly recognisable. Cheeses that reflect their terroir. We want people to taste the diversity of Spain’s sheep’s milk traditions: hard-pressed wheels, lactic styles, washed rinds, thistle rennet tortas, semi-soft and more. Each one reflects its landscape, its breed, and its maker.

Why Sheep’s Milk Matters in Spain?

Sheep’s milk is the backbone of Spanish cheesemaking. Spain is home to many rare and traditional dairy breeds, each producing milk with its own character. By championing these cheeses, we help preserve the knowledge, culture and biodiversity behind them.

Sheep produce less milk per day than cows or goats, and their milk is richer in protein and fat. It’s delicate to work with and is often used raw, which gives extraordinary depth of flavour but demands great skill from the cheesemaker. These factors make sheep’s milk cheeses more expensive—but they also make them exceptional. We believe in quality over quantity, and in celebrating the craftsmanship behind every wheel.

How Do We Care for our Cheeses?

Our cheese rooms in Balham were built to mirror the maturing conditions found in Spain’s traditional dairies, allowing each wheel to develop its true character just as it would in its place of origin. Cheesemaking is a craft shaped by land, climate and the hands of small-scale artisans, and we treat every cheese with the same respect.

Our cheese team hand turns the wheels, monitors their progress and keeps them at the ideal temperature and humidity so their flavours evolve naturally. This careful stewardship ensures that when you taste these cheeses in London, you experience the same depth, nuance and authenticity you would find in the Spanish dairies where they originated.

What You’ll Find at Our Chiswick Stand

Our Chiswick stand will always showcase the very best of Spain’s sheep’s milk cheeses:

• Raw milk Manchegos with true depth and authenticity
• Cardoon (thistle rennet) tortas, soft and spoonable
• Lesser known regional styles that deserve to be tasted and talked about

Many of these cheeses have been recognised on the world stage, earning Super Gold, Gold and Silver medals at the World Cheese Awards. Their success reflects not only the skill of the makers but the extraordinary potential of Spanish sheep’s milk - rich, complex and full of character.

There is so much to discover. Spain has been making sheep’s milk cheese for centuries, and today the UK is increasingly curious about this remarkable milk. In fact, British cheesemakers now travel to Spain to learn from its traditions - a remarkable turnaround considering that, when Brindisa began in 1988, hardly anyone here knew these cheeses existed.